Reykjavik: Local Guide for Those Who Want to Avoid Tourist Traps
Reykjavik: The Smallest and Most Original City in the World
With just 130,000 inhabitants, Reykjavik is the northernmost capital in the world and probably the one with the highest density of personality per square meter. The city is compact, walkable, full of street art, specialty coffee, craft bars, and a music scene (Sigur Rós and Of Monsters and Men come from here) disproportionate to its size. But it also hides some classic traps for unprepared tourists.
The Neighborhoods: Where to Really Stay
101 Reykjavik (the center): the ideal neighborhood for those who want to be within walking distance of everything. Laugavegur is the main shopping and nightlife street. High accommodation prices but unmatched for convenience.
Vesturbær: the locals' neighborhood, a 10-minute walk from the center. Quieter, with great cafes, the Vesturbæjarlaug pool (a local favorite), and many neighborhood restaurants.
Grandi: a post-industrial port area in creative transformation. Art galleries, concept stores, the Harpa museum, the best seafood restaurants in the harbor.
Where to Eat (Without Spending a Fortune)
Iceland is expensive, but there are strategies:
- Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur: the most famous hot dog stand in Iceland. A pylsa with everything (mustard, ketchup, rémoulade, raw and fried onions) costs 3€ and really fills you up. Bill Clinton ate just one and this became the place's best propaganda
- Maturinn: authentic Icelandic pasta and homestyle lamb soup — cheap by local standards
- Grillmarkaðurinn: if you want the complete gastronomic experience just once, this is it. Icelandic lamb, Arctic fish, coral butter — unforgettable but expensive (40-60€ per person)
- Kolaportið Market (Saturday and Sunday): local products, dried fish, skyr, souvenirs at honest prices
Spas and Pools: Forget the Blue Lagoon
The Blue Lagoon is famous and beautiful, but it costs 80-100€ per person and you must book months in advance. Locals never go there. The real Icelandic spas are the municipal geothermal pools:
- Sundhöllin: the most central, recently renovated, with outdoor hot tubs and a view of Hallgrímskirkja
- Laugardalslaug: the largest, with slides, outdoor pools at different temperatures, sauna
- Nauthólsvík: free geothermal beach, incredibly evocative in winter
A ticket costs 7-10€. Etiquette: a naked shower is mandatory before entering (locals care a lot about this — respect it).
The Night: The Scene You Don't Expect
Reykjavik has a legendary nightlife for a city of its size. Locals start late — after 11 PM — and the main night is Saturday (but also Friday). Bars don't close until 4:30 AM. Main area: Austurstræti and Laugavegur. Kex Hostel is the best place to meet travelers with personality.
What to Absolutely Avoid
- The cheap Northern Lights tours organized by downtown hotels: they often take you to places with light pollution. Better to rent a car and follow the SpaceWeatherLive forecasts
- The restaurants on the main street with laminated photo menus in English: almost always tourist traps at double the price
- Buying Icelandic wool souvenirs in downtown shops — it is likely imported synthetic wool. Go to the Handknitting Association of Iceland (Skólavörðustígur 19) for true lopapeysa wool
The real Reykjavik is discovered by walking: every corner has a mural, a hidden cafe, a bookstore with used Icelandic books. Slow down, explore, and let yourself be surprised by the most authentic small capital in Europe.